Venice is not a hugely interesting place to bird, especially if you’re restricted to the city proper as my wife and I were. Nonetheless if you’re not too accustomed to European birds, there may be a few surprises. There were a few for me on my recent October trip to the Bride of the Sea.
I had meant to take the Alilaguna boat from the airport across the lagoon to the city proper, but thanks to my nearly nonexistent Italian, we ended up on a bus crossing the lagoon (Alla Laguna) instead. There were some definite cormorants in the Lagoon. It was impossible to tell from the bus, but they were probably Great Cormorants. The other possibility is a Shag.
The most common birds are ones familiar to every American birder: Rock Pigeon and House Sparrow. House sparrows are more or less native. However, European birders have real wild rock pigeons to look at (though not in Venice). Consequently they distinguish between the genuine wild ones and the feral domestics found in Venice and other European cities. Venice has not yet reached the anti-pigeon frenzy that prevails in cities like New Orleans and London. Pigeon food is openly sold in St. Mark’s Square, and the pigeons there are the tamest I’ve ever seen. They routinely swarm and sit on anyone who has food or who they think might have food. The house sparrows are only marginally less tame.
Two species of gulls are also very common at this time of year: black-headed and yellow-legged. They’re hard to miss since they’re on all the water and the water is everywhere. In winter plumage the Black-headed Gull has just a black dot behind its eye rather than a full black had as it does in summer. The Yellow-legged Gull looks exactly like a Herring Gull (they are sometimes considered to be the same species) except that it has yellow legs instead of pink. It also has less streaking on its head in winter than a typical herring gull. I’d seen Black-headed Gull previously in Amsterdam but Yellow-legged Gull was my first life bird of the trip.

Sunday we took a vaporetti (boat bus) to the one significant accessible park, the Giardini Pubblici where most Biennalle pavilions are found. From there we walked all the way out to the East on St. Elena Island. This revealed a few interesting birds including Common Blackbird, Blackheaded Gull, European Robin, Winter Wren, and Yellow-legged Gull. Despite its commonness, I had never seen a European Robin before, and did not immediately recognize it. It looks more like warbler than a thrush, and not that much like an American Robin, though they are related. It’s also much shyer than the American bird so harder to get a look at. I didn’t realize what I’d seen till I returned to the site Wednesday morning.
There was also a possible Firecrest flitting around in a dense bush, though I didn’t get a good enough look to be sure. It might also have been a Blue Tit. Beth didn’t see the interest in standing around a bush for fifteen minutes waiting for a better look at a small bird. (Such are the hazards of taking one’s non-birding spouse on an exploratory trip.)
We returned to the city center on foot, and on the trip I made the only unique siting of the trip: a Common Buzzard circling high above the canals. (90% certainty, just maybe could have been a Honey Buzzard instead.) Fortunately this bird circled for a good while because I had a really hard time finding it in my European field guide. Everything about the bird screamed “Buteo”, and if I’d seen it in Prospect Park I would have chalked it as a red-tailed hawk without much thought. I knew a red-tail wasn’t likely, but I couldn’t find “hawk” in the index, except for a vagrant Swainson’s. And everything time I flipped through the pages I flipped right past the “buzzards” section since this didn’t look remotely like a “buzzard”. Fortunately I eventually looked up “Buteo” in the index, and discovered that in Europe all the hawks are called “buzzards”; and what I was looking at was in fact the nominative buteo species, Buteo Buteo, or Common Buzzard.
Tuesday we took a long boat ride to Isola de San Gregorio to see the Church across the water from St. Mark’s Square. On the maps there’s a lot of green space on that island, more than almost anywhere else in Venice. However, that proved to be inaccessible. On the boat ride over we did, however, see some possible Great Crested Grebes. That’s just a guess though, since the weather was hazy and I didn’t have my binoculars with me.
We took the train out, which also crossed the lagoon. On this trip we spotted the same unspecific cormorants we had seen on the way in on the bus. A few crows also appeared, probably carrion crows, but hard to tell.
The one thing we did not do that I wish we had done was take a boat tour of the Lagoon outside Venice proper. I suspect this would have turned up a lot more interesting species. What we did was the equivalent of birding New York from Battery Square Park to 42nd Street; but never going out to Jamaica Bay. (Venice really has no equivalent of Central Park.) Several companies offer Lagoon tours, but they had shut down for the season a couple of weeks before we arrived.